CLOVELLY: AN ENGLISH ORIGINAL
By Mike May
Many coastal English towns and villages can be classified as ‘one-of-a-kind,’ ‘fun-to-visit,’ ‘great-to-explore,’ or ‘must-see.’ There are very few, if any, English communities where all four of those descriptions apply in equal measure. Clovelly is one seaside English village which fits all four descriptions. Located in southwest England along the northern edge of the county of Devon, along the banks of the western edge of the Bristol Channel, Clovelly can also be accurately labeled as distinctly special, undeniably spectacular, and simply unforgettable. It’s also a privilege to step foot in this one-of-a-kind seaside strip of civilization. When you arrive in Clovelly, close your eyes and tap your shoes – just like Dorothy did in the Wizard of Oz. Then, remind yourself that you are not in Kansas anymore. When you open your eyes, you will be standing in a part of the world that remains attached to a bygone era.
The Clovelly experience begins as you make the trek along the steep, 400-foot, downhill pedestrianized cobbled main street steps which take you to the harbor front and Bideford Bay, which is an outlet to the Bristol Channel. As you make the descent along the cobbled, terraced streets, be aware that each of the buildings is architecturally listed which means they have been placed on the Statutory List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest in the United Kingdom.
Strolling through Clovelly is like walking back in time. There’s a sense of peace and tranquility to the pace of life in this ever-so-precious coastal community. Quite frankly, everybody needs to visit Clovelly at least once in their lifetime.
As you stroll through Clovelly and enjoy all that it has to offer, make sure that you conserve enough energy so that you have the strength and stamina to ascend those cobbled steps in order to leave this car-free village. Yes, it’s a car-free zone where pedestrians and donkeys take precedence over the internal combustion engine or anything which requires a fossil fuel. Don’t be surprised to see a donkey or two at Queen Victoria Fountain, outside the Clovelly post office, close to Clovelly’s two pubs, or near Clovelly’s two museums.
Besides the donkeys, another memory to take away from Clovelly is the Clovelly Court Gardens. This old walled garden thrives because it’s located in a sheltered sunny section which allows a wide range of plants to grow and flourish throughout the year.
While you are in Clovelly, you might be an eyewitness to the launching of the lifeboat – RNLI Toby Rundle – if there’s a nearby emergency at sea. There are two exceptions to the fossil-fuel transportation ban: (1) the engine on the lifeboat and (2) the Land Rover service for those who do not want to walk back up the hill to the car park. As you would expect, the design of the building – constructed with stone featuring bright red, wooden doors – that houses the lifeboat is in sync with Clovelly’s architectural décor. FYI: June 20, 2020 marks the 150th anniversary of the lifeboat station in Clovelly.
Three of Clovelly’s claims to fame are that author Charles Dickens described the village of Clovelly in A Message from the Sea. Cameos of the village, painted by Rex Whistler, were once used on a china service by Wedgwood. And, author Charles Kingsley was inspired by Clovelly to write The Water Babies and The Three Fishers poem.
Geographically, while Clovelly is off the beaten path, it’s a path worth following if you want to experience a coastal village which can correctly be labeled as ‘one-of-a-kind,’ ‘fun-to-visit,’ ‘great-to-explore,’ and ‘must-see.’
