Travel with Terri
Franklin County: Unspoiled and Unpretentious…with a Side of Salt
Story and Photos by Terri Marshall
Nestled in the panhandle of Florida exists a forgotten coast. There is only one traffic light in the entire county – and it was controversial when introduced. The communities have country music worthy names like Apalachicola and Alligator Point. The seafood is legendary. There are 200 miles of unspoiled beaches. Life moves a bit slower here, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t anything to do!
No matter what inspires you to travel, Franklin County has something to offer. Do you search for stories of days gone by? Is adventure your goal? Are you someone who enjoys immersing yourself in the local culture? Or do you prefer to spend lazy days on the beach? Franklin County delivers all of this amid a culinary landscape to please the foodie in all of us!
Franklin County encompasses 348,000 acres of pristine land – 202,180 of those acres belong to the state. The county is made up of the coastal communities of Alligator Point, Apalachicola, Carrabelle, Eastpoint and St. George Island. According to the St. George Island Tourism folks the population is likely less than 11,000 and that includes any blue tick hounds!
Art exhibits, music concerts, theater performances, fishing
tournaments, festivals and parades are scheduled throughout the year including a SGI Charity Chili Cookoff, Eastpoint Charity Rib Cookoff, St. George Island Mullet Toss, Water Street Festival of Ice and the Florida Seafood Festival.
If it’s history you seek, head to Carrabelle to visit Camp Gordon Johnston Museum that tells the story of how our troops trained on the salty beach of Franklin County for the D-Day Invasion of Normandy in World War II. Carrabelle is also home to the World’s Smallest Police Station – literally a phone booth! It has been featured on “Ripley’s Believe It or Not,” and the “Today Show.”
On St. George Island, the Cape St. George Lighthouse stood for 153 years before toppling into the gulf in 2005 following years of coastal erosion. The lighthouse has been painstakingly restored and now stands in the center of the island as a triumphant testament to the determination of the residents.
Strolling the wide streets of Apalachicola under canopies of oak trees evokes a sense of nostalgia. Stately homes line the streets, brick warehouses line the waterfront – now serving as homes to shops and restaurants – and friendly folks invite you to stop and experience “old” Florida.
If you’re up for adventure, get out on the water and soak up the local maritime scene. St. George Island has kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and beach equipment for rent. The fishing in Franklin County is unsurpassed. Local marinas offer inshore and offshore fishing charters.
With 81 percent of Franklin County’s land being publicly owned, eco-adventures abound. The Apalachicola River Paddling Trail was designated as a national paddle trail in 2008. Nearly 100 miles of trails run through the swamps of the Apalachicola River giving paddlers of all levels the opportunity to get up close to nature.
Hiking the coastal scrub habitat along the ancient dune system on the Coastal High Bluff Trail offers view of St. George Sound. Hike through Bald Point State Park to spot several species of birds – and if you’re lucky, a bald eagle.
And then there’s the food in Franklin County. The nutrient rich waters of the Apalachicola Bay estuarine system produce some of the finest seafood in the country. Franklin County harvests more than 90 percent of Florida’s oysters and 10 percent of the nationwide supply. Oystermen harvest the oysters today in the same manner they have for a century – from small wooden boats using tongs that look like two rakes attached scissor-style.
Those oysters can be enjoyed in restaurants like Boss Oyster – an Apalachicola landmark. Boss Oyster specializes in serving fresh-harvested oysters, continuously chilled from “harvest to belly.” Boss Oyster has been named one of the “10 Best Oyster Bars in the United States” by Coastal Living magazine. http://www.apalachicolariverinn.com/
Check out Up the Creek Raw Bar overlooking the Apalachicola River where Chef Brett creates culinary delights from the locally sourced oysters, clams and seafood. http://www.upthecreekrawbar.com/
Carrabelle Junction serves up made to order salads, soups and sandwiches along with cappuccinos and ice cream in a nostalgic diner atmosphere. Payment is accepted in cash, check or I.O.U.’s!
Seafood is not the only culinary delight brought to us from this area. The Apalachicola River basin and nearby Ochlocknee and Chocotahatchee Rivers are the only places in the world that produce certified Tupelo Honey. This all natural, fat-free honey has a distinctive taste and is the only honey that does not crystallize over time. George Stritikus uses this Tupelo Honey in his Chocolate Walnut Turtles at the Apalachicola Chocolate Company. Just a little something sweet to go along with the salty!
Lodging options are abundant in Franklin County. In Apalachicola choose between several inns including the 104-year-old and beautifully restored Victorian-era Gibson Inn with 30 uniquely designed guest rooms and a charming pub popular with locals and visitors alike. http://www.gibsoninn.com/
The Coombs Inn is an elegant Select Registry boutique inn set in three restored Victorian mansions. The inn has an intimate and sophisticated atmosphere with high ceilings, exquisite period decor, luxurious baths, gourmet breakfasts and afternoon tea. Guests have complimentary use of bicycles, beach chairs and umbrellas. www.coombshouseinn.com
Resort Vacation Properties, owned by five ladies with a combined total of more than 50 years of property rental experience , offers superior customer service and over 400 properties on St. George Island ranging from cozy one- bedroom condos to a luxurious eight-bedroom beachfront home. http://www.rvpsgi.com/
Collins Vacations Rentals has been welcoming guests to St. George Island for more than 36 years and manages almost 300 privately owned rental homes from charming Old Florida-style cottages to stunning seven-bedroom beach houses. http://www.collinsvacationrentals.com/
Besides all that Franklin County has to offer, it is quite simply beautiful. As Franklin County resident, Candace, says “I look forward to crossing the bridge each evening to St. George’s Island just to see how many colors are in the sunset.” Isn’t it about time you discovered Florida’s forgotten coast? http://www.saltyflorida.com/
Terri is a freelance writer with regular columns on travel, chocolate and bar reviews. She is busy each month visiting new places to bring unique travel destinations and events to you. Yes, it is a sacrifice – but she is willing to do that for her readers! You can see more of Terri’s writing at www.examiner.com where she is the National Chocolate Examiner and at www.barzz.net. Also, check out her blog at www.trippingwithterri.com. You can contact Terri at [email protected].