Travel with Terri
Deep in the heart of Texas
By Terri Farris
A river runs through it, wine country surrounds it, poets and artists call it home and evidence of cultural diversity is everywhere. One should expect nothing less from a city that has been a colony of Spain, a territory of Mexico, a part of the Republic of Texas and ultimately a city in the United States. To say San Antonio has an interesting history would be a gross understatement!
Most certainly you remember the Alamo. Originally a mission, the Alamo later became the place where soldiers courageously fought for Texas independence against overwhelming odds. The battle at the Alamo has become a symbol of heroism where men made the ultimate sacrifice for freedom. The Alamo is one of five beautifully-preserved Spanish colonial missions in San Antonio. (www.TheAlamo.org)
La Villita, a small village developed in the mid to late 18th century, was one of San Antonio’s original settlements. It was the center of Texas revolutionary activities in 1835 and 1836. Today it is an arts village offering hand crafted treasures like blown glass, jewelry and Mexican fashions. Located along San Antonio’s famed River Walk, La Villita is also the site of various cultural activities throughout the year including the annual Soul Food Festival held in May. This free event offers samples of down-home cooking and an annual “Gospel on the Plaza” choir competition. (www.lavillita.com)
Now about that River Walk, early in the 20th century, San Antonio began to develop the areas along the banks of the San Antonio River. Today, the “Paseo del Rio” is the anchor of this vibrant city. Four miles of cobble and flagstone paths wind along the border of the river as it runs through downtown San Antonio. It flows past night clubs, sidewalk cafes, luxury hotels and spas, specialty boutiques, museums and historical gems. Rio San Antonio Cruises floating transportation system provides a unique perspective for sightseeing along this scenic waterway with their informative cruises. Dine aboard an open-air cruiser or take a “Learn Aboard” cooking class. As this floating class drifts down the river, recipes are demonstration with an on-board mirror and cook top! Whether you are interested in shopping, dining, sightseeing, partying or a romantic stroll along the river banks, the River Walk is the place to be in San Antonio. (www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com)
When you go to San Antonio, you will need a place to stay and nothing beats staying on the River Walk. The Hotel Contessa is one of the River Walk’s newest premier hotels and the perfect place to relax after exploring all San Antonio has to offer. This Mediterranean-style property is both elegant and inviting. Hotel Contessa features a rooftop pool and fitness center as well as a Spa. The guest rooms are one-bedroom suites. Most have a river view, a separate parlor, exposed brick feature walls and marble baths. The service is spectacular – you may never want to leave! Hotel Contessa is home to Las Ramblas. This unique restaurant offering Spanish cuisine has an open exhibition-style kitchen and outdoor seating along the River Walk. The adjacent Cork Bar is the perfect place to enjoy a beverage and relax. (www.thehotelcontessa.com)
Beyond the banks of the river, there are numerous areas to explore. Many of these areas were home to early German settlers and at one point street signs were displayed in 3 languages – English, German and Spanish. Fredricksburg, Texas, located 70 miles north of San Antonio is an excellent place to experience this German culture. Here you will find German-style Biergartens as well as delicious German cuisine. A great place to start is the Fredricksburg Brewing Company on Main Street. You can sample the made on site brews and fill up on schnitzel and sauerkraut. (www.yourbrewery.com) This lovely historic town is also home to the Admiral Nimitz Museum. This National Pacific War Museum is dedicated exclusively to the telling the story of the Pacific and Asiatic Theaters in World War II. (www.nimitz-museum.org)
The area north of San Antonio and west of Austin is known as the Texas Hill Country. The beautiful rolling landscape is a sharp contrast to this state’s otherwise flat terrain. The Hill Country is also home to 24 wineries and is second only to the Napa Valley in wine production in the nation. Tour the vineyards, sample the delicious variety of Texas wines or join one of the scheduled wine trail events planned throughout the region. (www.texaswinetrail.com)
Ten miles east of Fredericksburg is a tiny hamlet with a familiar name – Luckenbach, Texas. Brought to worldwide fame by the Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson song, Luckenbach’s motto is “Everybody’s Somebody.” There aren’t a lot of somebodies living in Luckenbach, but a whole lot of somebodies visit! This “town” consists of a Post Office, General Store, Tavern and Dancehall – all in one building. That’s all, really.
Originally settled in 1849 by August Engel, a German preacher,
Luckenbach was named by the preacher’s daughter, Minna, in honor of her fiancé. Opened in 1886 as a Trading Post that catered to pioneer farmers and Comanche Indians alike, the original building is still used today for all of Luckenbach’s activities. In 1970 Luckenbach was still in the hands of the Engel family when Benno Engel retired as postmaster and placed an ad in the local paper: “TOWN FOR SALE – lock, stock and dancehall”! Enter Hondo Crouch and his unusual friends and the town took on a new life. Hondo proclaimed himself Mayor and gave his accomplices titles like Sheriff and Foreign Ambassadors. Luckenbach became the backdrop for events such as the Ladies State Chili Bust, Hug-Ins and a Luckenbach World’s Fair. These events continue today, as well as the daily sessions of drinking and song-picking in the tavern and outside beneath the 500-year-old oak trees. Roosters roam freely and the resident cats, Miss Kitty and Marshall Dillon, assist with bartending and night security. You will need a map to find Luckenbach because the signs are stolen as soon as they are posted! (www.luckenbachtexas.com)
Deep in the heart of Texas you will experience the beauty of the landscape, the river, art, wine, culture, history and some truly unique characters – and you might just leave a piece of your heart behind! (www.visitsanantonio.com)
Terri is a freelance writer with regular columns on travel, chocolate and bar reviews. She is busy each month visiting new places to bring unique travel destinations and events to you. Yes, it is a sacrifice – but she is willing to do that for her readers! You can see more of Terri’s writing at www.examiner.com where she is the National Chocolate Examiner and at www.barzz.net. You can contact Terri at [email protected].