Travel with Terri
Ireland: Experience the Magic!
By Terri Farris
Photos by Gregory Holder
People travel to Ireland for many reasons. Many go to seek their heritage, to experience a glimpse of Irish history, to celebrate the spirit of the Irish people or simply to sample the spirits – after all this is the land where Jameson and Guinness flow freely! To truly experience Ireland, enjoy the customary tourist destinations – the Blarney Stone, Dublin and the Cliffs of Moher – but also rent a car, drive the narrow streets, dodge the sheep and cows in the road and experience the magic that is Ireland!
My personal journey in Ireland began with an overnight flight from New York to Dublin, followed by a 2 ½ hour train ride from Dublin to Cork where we picked up a rental car. Our first destination was Kinsale and although it was only an 18 mile drive from Cork, the combination of the lack of sleep, driving on the opposite side of the road and trying to navigate the round-abouts with an overload of road signs written in English and Gaelic produced a thrill ride comparable to any theme park! However, as soon as we arrived in the picturesque harbor town of Kinsale, all stress dissolved and – after a nap – the driving seemed much less overwhelming!
Originally a medieval fishing port, Kinsale is ideally situated on the southwest coast of Ireland making it a popular location for sailing and deep-sea fishing. The town is filled with brightly painted cottages, Georgian architecture and hanging baskets full of beautiful flowers! The narrow medieval winding streets are perfect for strolling and exploring. Kinsale is the oldest town in Ireland and was the sight of the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 – a battle that altered the course of Irish history.
Today Kinsale has a booming tourist industry and has garnered international acclaim as the culinary capital of Ireland. There are restaurants and pubs to suit everyone’s taste. We opted for fish and chips – the perfect start to our Ireland vacation – made from fish caught in the harbor just outside the restaurant …now that’s fresh! After dinner we stopped in An Seanchai to sample the spirits! A pub filled with Old World charm, the An Seanchai Bar has live music nightly featuring traditional, folk and ballad sessions. www.kinsale.ie
Our accommodations were spectacular at the Actons Hotel. With spacious suites and views of the harbor, this luxury hotel is perfectly situated to enjoy all Kinsale has to offer. www.actonshotelkinsale.com
Located on Great Island in the Cork Harbor and connected to the mainland by bridges, Cobh (“Cove”) was our next stop for exploration. Cobh is perhaps most famous as a embarkation point for America where countless Irish men and women left to build a new life, especially during the Potato Famine years form 1844 to 1848. Cobh has seen its share of tragedies as the Lusitania left from Cobh just before it was sunk off the coast of Kinsale in 1915 by a German submarine. Cobh – or Queenstown as it was known in the past – was also the last port of call for the Titanic on her fateful maiden voyage. There are memorials to both of these tragedies in the town. Guided heritage tours are available from Titanic Trail. www.titanic-trail.com
The Queenstown Story is illustrated in the Cobh Heritage Centre located on the waterfront by the railway station. The town is picture perfect with St. Coleman’s Cathedral perched on a hilltop in the center of the town. Sloping down the hill from the cathedral are brightly colored boutiques and restaurants. The people we encountered were every bit as bright and cheerful as the town!
Driving the country roads is an experience like none other. The roads are narrow with unexpected twists and turns and the views are spectacular. Legendary country singer, Johnny Cash, was so inspired with this beautiful land he wrote an entire album of Irish songs. His most well-known refers to Ireland’s “Forty Shades of Green.” It would seem there are at least 40 shades of green and this land must be absolute heaven for cows that can be seen by the hundreds grazing throughout the countryside. It is also possible to encounter unusual traffic jams on an Ireland road trip as we learned when a side road through County Kerry led us to an entire herd of cattle in the road as they meandered back to the barn during the evening “rush hour!” Sheep are also everywhere and just as likely to enter the roadways – it is certainly more entertaining than the standard city traffic jam!
Located at the western edge of Ireland in County Kerry is a truly magical place. In the Irish language of Gaelic, Dingle was named “Daingean Ui Chuis” which means Fortress of Hussey. The Husseys were a Flemish family who settled in the area in the 13th Century.
Today Dingle’s most famous resident is Fungie, the Dingle Dolphin. Paddy Ferriter, the Dingle Harbour lighthouse keeper, first began watching a lone wild dolphin escort the town’s fishing boats to and from port in 1984. Today, Fungie still lives in the harbor and has become quite the tourist attraction with visitors traveling into the harbor on boats to catch a glimpse of this friendly and mischievous Dingle citizen!
Dingle is characterized by hilly streets and brightly painted houses. The layout of the streets still reflects its origins as a walled borough. Although the town is known as a fishing port, the pubs of Dingle are one of its best experiences – and it has over 50 to choose from! Two of the most unusual are Dick Mack’s and Foxy John’s. Dick Mack’s is located across from the Church and has attracted celebrities such as Julia Roberts, Sean Connery and Paul Simon whose names are commemorated with stars on the sidewalk just outside. Part pub and part leather shop, this former cobbler’s shop is loved by locals and visitors alike. Stop in for a pint of Guinness and you will likely hear an impromptu ballad, folk song or poetry reading. And, of course you can pick up some leather goods while you are there! Foxy John’s is ½ pub and ½ hardware store! A handyman’s dream that gives new meaning to the phrase “Honey, I’m going to pick up a screwdriver!”
Dingle is a place to slow down and relax and the Dingle Skellig Hotel and Peninsula Spa is the perfect lodging choice for your visit. Regarded as one of County Kerry’s finest hotels, the Dingle Skellig Hotel offers first class accommodations and superior customer service. Our room had a sweeping view of the Dingle Harbour and a walk around the grounds brought us to a group of cows all lying patiently in wait while the bull grazed nearby! http://www.dingleskellig.com/
From Dingle, we began our driving tour of the Dingle Peninsula. This mountainous finger of land juts into the Atlantic Ocean and has supported various tribes and populations for almost 6,000 years. Familiar to movie buffs as the location of the movie Far and Away, this remote section of Ireland is filled with numerous archaeological monuments dating back to the Stone Ages. Along the way we visited cottages from the Potato Famine period, early Christian landmarks and beehive huts. We also took time to stop and walk along the breath-takingly beautiful beaches. And yes, the cows, sheep, mules, horses and ponies were always nearby along the way! http://www.dingle-peninsula.ie/
Whether your heritage is Irish or you just enjoy the spirit of the people – or the spirits – the Emerald Isle is a magical destination that must be experienced! www.discoverireland.com
Terri is a freelance writer with regular columns on travel, chocolate and bar reviews. She is busy each month visiting new places to bring unique travel destinations and events to you. Yes, it is a sacrifice – but she is willing to do that for her readers! You can see more of Terri’s writing at www.examiner.com where she is the National Chocolate Examiner and at www.barzz.net. You can contact Terri at [email protected].