Travel with Terri
Røros: A Winter Wonderland Complete with Reindeer
Story and Photos by Terri Marshall
Each year the holiday season is ushered in with television ads showing snow covered streets, horse drawn sleighs with the sounds of jingle bells and folks wrapped up in warm clothing. As a child I always looked forward to televisions specials like Charlie Brown’s Christmas and Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer. I just didn’t realize that Rudolph and the gang really existed – until I went to Norway this past winter.
My destination was Røros where I was to attend a most unusual winter’s fair – Rørosmartnan. It’s been 150 years since the King of Norway entered a proclamation declaring, “From 1854 onwards a yearly market shall be held in Røros, commencing the second last Tuesday in the month of February, lasting until the following Friday.”
When the King speaks, Norwegians listen. In February 1854, Rørosmartnan was born. Traders from all over Norway and even parts of Sweden harnessed their horses to sleighs and traveled across frozen lakes and rivers through snow blanketed forests to Røros. They brought with them products indigenous to their regions to trade with their countrymen.
Rørosmartnan continues today and except for the extension of the festival through Saturday and the addition of electricity and cell phones, not much has changed. For many Norwegians, the journey to Rørosmartnan is still made by horse and sleigh with some traveling up to 11 days sleeping in farms along the way. The tradition isn’t just for the old-timers. Ages of the travelers at this year’s festival ranged from 1 to 87!
I arrived in time for opening day at Rørosmartnan…an experience everyone should have at least once. The horse and sleigh groups glide into town wearing traditional Norwegian dress over the three or four necessary layers of undergarments – February in Norway tends to be a bit cold! Folk rock bands entertain and the steps to the Pols folk dance seem to be known by everyone.
Strolling amid charming wooden houses from the 17th and 18th century – many of which still retain their dark pitch-log facades – while listening to the clanging of the bells from the parade of horses and sleighs carrying traders bundled up in reindeer furs you will start to believe you’ve been transported straight to the North Pole.
The town of Røros is an attraction in itself especially in winter when the streets are covered in snow and the sun reflects off icy tree branches. This former copper mining town is a UNESCO World Heritage site with modern day inhabitants living and working in the protected wooden buildings. During Rørosmartnan the town’s usual 5,000 residents share their narrow streets with 75,000 visitors as Røros is transformed into a lively marketplace with a festive street life.
Most of the fair takes place in the two main streets of Røros where about 250 exhibitors have stalls in the street and at the indoor trade fair. There are about 80 wooden houses centered around courtyards – or backyards. Those backyards are the place to go to discover the true essence of Rørosmartnan.
Traditionally, people would gather in the backyards to trade, play music, dance and tell stories. During Rørosmartnan, this tradition lives on as the backyards become traditional country inns with stables for visiting horses. Wander into any backyard and you will find fiddlers and other musicians, coffee brewing over an open fire, traditional crafts and story-telling. Everyone is welcome and the traders are happy to teach you the traditional folk dances and offer you samples of their homemade sausages – which could be anything from reindeer to last year’s horse. You might want to get confirmation before sampling! In the stables, you will find some of the current year’s horses resting up and hoping not to be next year’s sausage.
There are plenty of live animal encounters available during
Rørosmartnan. You can mush with a team of Alaskan Huskies or take an easy ride in one of the horse drawn sleighs under the warmth of your own reindeer blanket. And then there’s reindeer driving on a frozen lake.
In a scene straight from the North Pole excited children of all ages ride in wooden sleds pulled by real reindeer. The reindeer are owned by an indigenous South Sami family whose daily life revolves around reindeer herding. Their work with the reindeer is based on traditions that go back many generations in the Røros area. The family’s main home is in town but they spend much of their time in the mountains with the reindeer where they stay in cabins built for herders. During the festival they bring the reindeer to town where you can drive them around the frozen lake – basically having your very own Santa moment.
When I heard reindeer were real and I could actually drive a reindeer sled, there was no stopping me. On my last afternoon, my host walked with me to a frozen lake just outside the town center. It was in this bucolic winter wonderland scene that I saw my first reindeer. There were several walking a path around the frozen lake as excited children of all ages rode in wooden sleds pulled by Santa’s team.
It was late afternoon and the reindeer really just wanted to take a nap – they tend to be a bit lazy. But I had been promised the chance to drive a reindeer sled so I was welcomed – at least by the people.
My host grew up in Norway and was right at home with the animals. She hopped onto the back section of the little wooden sled and waited for me to sit at the front of the sled to drive. I stepped in between the wooden bars that attached the sled to the animal.
Blitzen was over the whole “let them drive me” scene and he wasn’t waiting any longer for me to get seated. When I stepped in front of the sled he bolted and I went flying backwards off the sled and into a blanket of snow. The poor woman in charge was horrified as she tried to calm the beast down. My host tried desperately to stop laughing so that she could check on my condition.
I scrambled back to my feet and brushed the snow off my jeans – that’s when I heard the noise behind me. It seems Donner had been watching the incident with Blitzen and was completely amused. His mouth was open in a big reindeer smile – he was laughing at me. Seriously.
I guess I shouldn’t have been that surprised, after all they did laugh at poor Rudolph with his red nose. I’m sure Grandma flying through the air and landing with a thud in the snow was much more amusing than a red-nosed reindeer.
Once Blitzen was subdued, I climbed back on the sled to drive the beast. Reindeer is a popular dish in Norway and I reminded Blitzen of this while I drove him around the lake. He straightened up and let me enjoy my ride.
I have always despised that song “Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer” but now I understand it.
*****
Terri is a freelance writer with regular columns on travel, chocolate and bar reviews. She is busy each month visiting new places to bring unique travel destinations and events to you. Yes, it is a sacrifice – but she is willing to do that for her readers! You can see more of Terri’s writing at www.examiner.com where she is the National Chocolate Examiner and at www.barzz.net. Also, check out her blog atwww.trippingwithterri.com. You can contact Terri at [email protected].