Travel with Terri
Trondheim: A Norwegian Delight
Story and Photos By Terri Marshall
Trondheim, Norway’s third largest city, is the cultural center of the Trondelag region. This picturesque city with its timber built fisherman warehouses of red, gold, brown and green flanking the sides of the Nidelva River is a fascinating contrast of old and new. Home to the majestic Nidaros Cathedral, the Norwegian University of Science and Technology and a lively music scene, there is something for everyone in this delightful city.
Here are a few of my suggestions for uniquely Trondheim experiences.
Become a Rock Star!
Opened in 2010, Rockheim is Norway’s National Museum of Pop and Rock. Visits begin on the 6th floor – the “Top Box” – and proceed down floor by floor. Check out the Time Tunnel – a permanent exhibit taking you through Norway’s musical and cultural history.
The 5th floor is home to Rockheim Panorama, a restaurant with stunning views of the city and the Trondheim Fjord where you can enjoy lunch or dinner, cakes and coffee.
The 4th floor is all about interaction. At the Rockheim Jam Station you can explore instruments and jam to popular Norwegian tracks. The Hip Hop Room gives you the chance to do graffiti with a laser pointer. You can also create your own mix of Norwegian hip hop tunes with digital record players. You can even try break dancing if you are so inclined.
In the Ronni Room you can play guitar with Norwegian guitarist Ronni Le Tekrø. I gave it a try but Ronni ran out of patience with me – well at least his video did. http://www.rockheim.no/
Cross the Bridge of Happiness!
Who would turn down an opportunity to cross a bridge of happiness? Built in 1691, the Gamle Bybro (OldTownBridge) is also called the “Portal of Happiness” making it a popular spot for marriage proposals. Crossover the bridge for access to Bakklandet – Trondheim’s “OldTown” – guaranteed to make you happy!
Bakklandet’s cobblestone streets are lined with carefully preserved small 17th century houses transformed into cafes and galleries. One of the most popular cafes is Bakklandet Skyddstation located just over the bridge. Owner Girli Riis Holmen greets every patron who enters her charming cafe. http://www.skydsstation.no/
Follow the Golden Road!
Outside Trondheim, Norway’s 65-mile Golden Road winds past spectacular fjords, over hills and around hairpin bends – each turn bringing views more breathtaking than the last. Located on the peninsula Inderoy in central Norway, the Golden Road is a cooperative comprised of farmers, galleries, artists, craftsman and butcheries. Much of the food produced in this fertile region has been voted the best of its kind in the world.
There is a focus on “short-traveled food” in Norway. Local farmers open up their homes to visitors, and serve farm-fresh fare while sharing stories of centuries-old family traditions of farming.
A favorite stop along the trail is the picturesque Gangstad Farm complete with a big red barn where you’ll find award-winning cheeses and licorice flavored ice cream. In the summer months you can meet the cows responsible for providing the delicious cheese. http://www.ysteri.no/
At Klostergarden Farmhouse located next to the ancient ruins of a Cistercian monastery from the year 1207 on the Trondheim Fjord, third generation proprietor, Jorn Gunnarson Anderseen, brews a variety of craft beers and serves beer infused chocolates. http://dgo.no/
Go picking!
Berry and mushroom picking is a Norwegian tradition. In early August through September, there are berries and mushrooms galore. Since I typically get my fruits and vegetables from a market, it was an adventure to hike into the woods surrounding Trondheim in search of produce.
I followed Norway’s celebrity chef, Mikael Forselius, into the woods in search of chanterelle mushrooms. Mikael showed me how to look under leaves in the boggy areas for the prized mushrooms. I kept gravitating toward the pretty red and white mushrooms which (he informed me) were poisonous. It’s a good idea to go with someone who knows their mushrooms.
In addition to mushrooms, there are wild cranberries, blueberries and cloudberries – a sweet berry unique to Arctic regions. Berries just taste better when you pick them yourself – especially when you pick them in Norway.
Go to Hell!
Don’t worry, I haven’t gone all mean and nasty on you. Hell is a little village just outside Trondheim that has become a bit of a tourist attraction. The railway station has a sign that reads “God Expedition” which is the archaic Norwegian language for cargo. When I heard about it, I had to go. Besides I was there in the winter for my first visit and I was just dying to say “Hell has frozen over.” Sure, it is a little corny, but if you are going to go all the way to Norway, you might as well go to Hell while you are there. In September there is an annual blues festival at Hell Station – Blues in Hell – you’ve got to love that! www.bluesinhell.no
Go to church!
Since I sent you to Hell, I have to redeem myself by sending you to church – but not just any church…the majestic Nidaros Cathedral built over the grave of St. Olav, Norway’s patron saint.
Olav Haraldsson died in 1030 in the battle of Stiklestad while attempting to bring Christianity to Norway and unite the country. Nidaros has been an important pilgrimage sight for centuries. Each July Nidaros Cathedral is center stage for St. Olav’s Festival, Norway’s largest cultural festival. Many people walk the Pilgrim Path- a network of routes through Denmark, Sweden and Norway which are remnants of historic routes leading to Nidaros Cathedral.
The festival begins with a traditional Olav vigil, where services and prayers are conducted from late evening until early morning before St. Olav’s Day on July 29th. In addition to the religious events, the celebration includes concerts, a re-enactment of the Stiklestad battle, plays, lectures, exhibitions and Trondheim’s annual food festival showcasing foods from the surrounding region.
Next to the Nidaros Cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace. From 1152 until 1537, the palace served as the administrative office for archbishops. Today, it’s the site of the Archbishop’s PalaceMuseum with an amazing exhibition of original sculptures from the Cathedral. In the west wing of the Archbishop’s Palace you will find the Crown Regalia exhibition – a collection of exquisite Norwegian Crown Jewels. During St. Olav’s Festival, the courtyard of the Archbishop’s Palace is the sight of a lively medieval marketplace. en.olavsfestdagene.no
Where to Stay:
Britannia Hotel: Located in the heart of Trondheim within walking distance to the city’s favorite attractions, the Britannia Hotel has welcomed royalty, politicians, rock stars and savvy travelers since 1897. With 247 rooms including 31 suites and “artist rooms”, fine dining and a luxurious spa, Britannia offers magical moments of luxury in a historic setting. www.britannia.no
Rica Bakklandet: Winner of the Traveler’s Choice Award for 2013, this charming hotel located on the banks of the NidelvaRiver seamlessly blends elegance with rustic appeal. Enjoy an extensive breakfast buffet with traditional breakfast dishes as well as salmon, herring and a large selection of cheeses. www.rica-hotels.com/hotels/trondheim/rica-bakklandet-hotel
Where to Eat:
Agot Lian: Don’t miss the fish cakes and potato salad at this authentic Norwegian seafood restaurant. Everything is locally sourced, it’s delicious and it’s healthy. Owners Jo and Anne are a delight. www.agotlian.no
Havfruen: Choose from a set menu of three, five or seven course dinners featuring fresh seafood and locally sourced products. Check out the cozy bar on the ground floor by the NidelvaRiver. www.havfruen.no/english
See www.visitnorway.com for more information.
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Terri is a freelance writer with regular columns on travel, chocolate and bar reviews. She is busy each month visiting new places to bring unique travel destinations and events to you. Yes, it is a sacrifice – but she is willing to do that for her readers! You can see more of Terri’s writing at www.examiner.com where she is the National Chocolate Examiner and at www.barzz.net. Also, check out her blog atwww.trippingwithterri.com. You can contact Terri at [email protected].