Travel with Terri
Discover Utrecht: Holland’s City of Charm
Story and Photos by Terri Marshall
When you plan a trip to Holland the itinerary has to include tulips, wooden windmills and Gouda cheese, that’s a given. It will probably also include a visit to some of The Netherlands’ best known cities like Amsterdam, The Hague and Delft with its iconic blue earthenware. One city that might not be on your radar is Utrecht. A university city filled with bustling wharves, hidden gardens, an intriguing history and music on virtually every corner, Utrecht is utterly charming. And, it is only about a half hour scenic train ride from Amsterdam.
So what charmed me about Utrecht? It started with a walk through the city. I strolled past eye-catching contemporary structures interspersed with ancient historic city houses dating back to the early Middle Ages. Bicycles were everywhere in the car free city center with parents rigging some incredibly creative wagons to tow their children, groceries and even home improvement supplies.
The canals of Utrecht are unlike any in the world. The wharves at the central canal, Oudegracht, were built in the 12th-century as a medieval harbor. Merchants made clever use of the difference in levels between the canals with their mooring stages and the street with its houses a few feet higher up. Rather than haul cargo from the quayside up to the banks and back down again to the cellar of a canal house, they built tunnels straight from the quay to the cellars. Today, those tunnels have been converted into shops, restaurants and galleries. Nowhere else in the world can you dine and shop beside a canal in a medieval harbor.
Strolling the cobblestone streets surrounding the city’s medieval old town during a busy weekend, the streets are lively with the sounds of street organs and other musicians. In contrast, on an early Sunday morning, I strolled alone to the sounds of an older gentlemen playing his accordion on Domplein – the main square where Utrecht was founded. I ducked into side streets that led to impossibly beautiful public gardens. One of the most stunning was the Pandhof. This hidden gem lies between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. Entry to the monastery garden is through a neo-Gothic gate where small plots of plants separated by low-lying hedges beg you to sit and contemplate life for a while – at least until you’re ready to tackle the climb to the top of Domtoren.
A cathedral city with a history dating back to 47 AD, Utrecht has been attacked by Vikings, damaged by a massive town fire and even wiped out by a hurricane. Each time the city was rebuilt. The 14th-century bell tower, Domtoren (Dom Tower) stands as a silent witness to the city’s past and a testament to its survival. The Dom Tower and the Dom Church took almost 300 years to build. Domtoren is Utrecht’s most famous landmark and can be seen from anywhere in the city. If you can master the 465 steps to the top of the tower, you will be rewarded with views of the surrounding cities and countryside which, on a clear day, stretch all the way to Amsterdam. The impressive Carillion bells in the tower contribute to the music that rings throughout the city.
After the long haul up the tower, head underground to give your thighs a rest at DOM Under. This fascinating underground world exposes 2000 years of Dutch history under Domplein. Archaeological excavations have uncovered layer upon layer of the city’s historic treasures. In this innovative attraction receivers are planted among the artifacts. As you descend into the underground each person is handed a flashlight with an attached earpiece. When the beam from the flashlight shines on a receiver it activates an audio recording that explains the significance of each exhibit. Searching for the receivers amid the old bricks, ancient Roman oil lamps, tombs and even skeletons kept everyone entertained as we uncovered the layers of early Utrecht.
The Centraal Museum also provides an excellent cultural overview of the past, present and future of Utrecht. Besides exhibits about the city’s history, the museum houses the world’s largest collection of Rietveld designs, a collection of work by Dutch masters who lived in Utrecht and displays of today’s fashion, design and arts. You’ll also find works by Dick Bruna, the graphic designer who created the beloved children’s book character, Miffy.
Just walking through Utrecht the city’s love of music is evident. From street musicians playing street organs to university students playing string quartets, music is everywhere. But if you are looking for an outstanding music venue, the TivoliVrendenburg is unsurpassed. As the biggest music stage in Holland, TivoliVredenburg has five concert halls with room for 300 to2000 people. Simultaneous concerts ranging from intimate chamber music concerts to large-scale pop productions and everything in between can be accommodated. In addition to the music halls, there are bars, a grand café and a restaurant. It is truly a stunning venue.
Utrecht is also a city where you can visit a market every day of the week. There are three large markets in the city center including the Bloemenmarkt (flower market) which completely captivated me with its colorful array of blooms – and of course those iconic tulips.
Isn’t it time you got to know Utrecht?
Terri is a New York City based writer who is happiest when she’s globetrotting. She is the Special Projects Editor for TravelSquire.com, the National Chocolate Examiner, the Globetrotting Grandmom for TravelingMom.com and a contributor to several other publications. Tough life, right? You can find more of Terri’s work and adventures on her website: www.trippingwithterri.com Follow her on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TrippingwithTerri and on Twitter @trippingwterri .